![]() The microbiology of the lake is dominated by salt-loving organisms such as spirulina, a form of blue-green algae whose red pigments make the salt-encrusted flats in the centre of the lake look bright red when seen from the air. The only resident vertebrates are a few species of small fish, notably the endemic white-lipped tilapia that congregate near hot-spring inlets where the water temperature is around 36–40☌. Natron’s hyper-salinity makes it incapable of sustaining any but the most specialised life forms. Today, depending on recent rainfall, the viscous water has an average pH of 9–11, making it almost as caustic as ammonia when the level is very low, and it can reach a temperature of up to 60☌ in extreme circumstances. The alkaline level has also increased drastically over the millennia, partially because of the high salinity of ash and lava deposits from Lengai, partially because the lake’s only known outlet is evaporation. Nowhere more than 50cm deep, it has changed shape significantly since that time, largely as a result of volcanic activity associated with the creation of Ol Doinyo Lengai to its immediate south. Thought to be about 1.5 million years old, Natron is a product of the same tectonic activity that formed the Ngorongoro Highlands and Mount Gelai, the latter being a 2,941m-high extinct volcano that rises from the eastern lakeshore. Then there is the lake itself, a thrillingly primordial phenomenon whose caustic waters are enclosed by a crust of sodden grey volcanic ash and desiccated salt, punctuated by isolated patches of steamy, reed-lined swamp where the hot springs that sustain the lake bubble to the surface. The Natron skyline is dominated by the textbook volcanic silhouette of Ol Doinyo Lengai, which rises more than 2km above the surrounding Rift Valley floor to an altitude of 2,960m, its harsh black contours softened by an icing of white ash that glistens brightly below the sun, as if in parody of Kilimanjaro’s snows. And so, too, is the most northerly landmark in the Tanzanian Rift Valley, the low-lying Lake Natron, a shallow sliver of exceptionally alkaline water that extends southward from the Kenyan border near Mount Shompole for 58km. Ethiopia’s Danakil Desert is one such spot the volcanic Virunga Range in the Albertine Rift is another. The best times to visit are the relatively cooler months of June – August.There are but a handful of places where the Rift Valley evokes its geologically violent origins with graphic immediacy. It is possible to arrive at the summit by sunrise and return before the temperatures climb too high. A midnight start is normally involved as a way of avoiding the heat. This hike is a great reprieve from the staggering heat and you will find the swim quite refreshing. However, after a few hours you’ll reach a beautiful natural swimming pool surrounded by steep rock walls – showered by cascades of spring-water and overlooked by palm trees. There’s a bit of gentle scrambling involved, and you’ll get a bit wet crossing the river a few of times along the way. ![]() ![]() This walk winds up through a shady gorge (very welcome in the heat) between steep cliffs. There is an opportunity to walk up to the Engero Sero Waterfalls. This highly saline lake supports many micro-organisms and a blue-green algae with red pigments which attracts a very large number of flamingos. On the far side of Lengai, you will arrive at Lake Natron. Preceded by some small extinct volcanoes, you will come by Kerimasi Crater and Ol Doinyo Lengai (“mountain of god”), an active volcano rising from the surroundings. The desolation broken up by some scattered Maasai dwellings scattered here and there. However, the adventurous tourists that venture here are rewarded by being truly off the beaten track and will be surrounded by some fabulous scenery. Surrounded by rolling hills and deep craters, the lake water is with a alkaline level close to that of ammonia. The area has the distinction of being incredibly dry and dusty. Located about 3 hours by vehicle from Mto wa Mbu (town nearest to Lake Manyara), this area is part of the famous Great Rift Valley of Africa.
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